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A Friend Indeed
I've just invented a proverb: "A friend indeed is a friend you can
have a holiday with and still remain friends." It's hardly pithy,
I accept, but, as a proverb should be, it's a nugget of wisdom and truth.
Ask anybody whether they have survived a family holiday taken together
with another family, and their faces will cloud over. Oh dear, they will
say ...
But my friend Paul is indeed, a friend in need, and together with our
families (Paul, admittedly, with the odd change of wife here and there),
we have survived not one, but two joint holidays. Here's how.
Paul's son Sam was at crawling age and Annabel was a toddler when the
idea of going away together cropped up. It was very late to do anything
about it, but I got the number of an agency which hired out gîtes
in France. The concept is glorious: You rent a beautiful, rustic cottage,
adorned with geraniums, cool on the inside, fully equipped and in idyllic
country surroundings ... Yes, please, we'll have some of that, merci beaucoup.
The agency sent me something suspiciously unglossy. Already, on the phone,
they had sounded doom-laden about our chances of getting anything at all
at this late stage, but through the post came a dingy-looking photocopy
of a photocopy, with some semi-legible text and illustrations which took
the form of black blobs. All but one of them had been crossed out in felt-tip.
The one remaining gîte sounded really nice. I worked out that it
had open fireplaces, several bedrooms and was on a farm near to a small
town called Châteleaudren, in Brittany. It seemed absolutely ideal,
so we booked it.
To get us there, Paul borrowed his father-in-law's car. Well, actually,
it was a car belonging to his father-in-law's company, and therefore to
be treated with the most goat-like of kid gloves. That the car wasn't
entirely suitable soon became clear. It was a tiny little Vauxhall Nova,
to which Paul attached a roof rack for our various cases, buggies, travel
cots and other accoutrements. That was fine (as long as we didn't travel
under any low bridges), but the conditions inside weren't.
Birgit gets car sick if she sits in the back of a vehicle, so she joined
Paul in the front. It needs to be noted at this stage that she was also
several months pregnant with Lucy, so would have been vomiting all the
time anyway, without the assistance of the various sick-making elements
which the holiday was to throw up (sorry). Anyway, in the back were Paul's
wife, Ali, plus me, Annabel (in a child seat) and Sam (on Ali's lap).
The conditions were agonisingly cramped and of course the children both
dribbled, puked and dropped food and drink all over themselves and us.
Well, that's what you expect. Serve us right for having unprotected sex
in the first place.
Sam (who nowadays is a pretty normal sort of chap) was "going through
a phase". This particular phase entailed him being relatively quiet
for reasonable periods, but every now and then, he would, for no apparent
reason, let out a blood-curdling yell at a volume which, considering his
small frame, was physically impossible. Except that he did it:
"Wuuuuaaaaaaaarrrgh!"
And then one more for luck:
"Wuuuuaaaaaaaarrrgh!"
So startling was this (planned each time, seemingly, to coincide with
my finally descending into some kind of minor nap) that it was was sufficient
to seriously threaten to perforate my eardrum, as well as making me jump
high enough to bash my head on the car's ceiling. It was excruciating,
and it went on for hours and hours and hours.
Châteleaudren, it turned out, was a heck of a long way from Le Havre.
But we had to go via Le Havre because Paul worked for P & O and could
thus get cheap tickets. Dusk was falling as we finally reached the gîte,
but even in the gathering shadows, we could perceive that it wasn't precisely
the rural idyll that we had anticipated. The building itself was across
the yard from the farmhouse and had no garden (so bang went the idea of
sunbathing luxuriantly on the lawn). Our arrival was greeted with a cacophonous
barking from several slavering, rabid-looking Alsatians which roamed,
lead-less, around the yard. The children were traumatised before they'd
even got out of the car, as these creatures reared up against the windows,
scratching them with their paws and frothing against the glass.
Having been trapped in the car for several minutes (there being no sign
of any humans), we were eventually released when the surly farmer appeared
and rather reluctantly called off the Hounds From Hell. He showed no willingness
to react to my gushingly fluent and well-prepared French words of greeting.
In one way, this was a relief, because I'm always getting into trouble
by plunging headlong into foreign language conversations that I turn out
to be incapable of sustaining; on the other hand, it would have been quite
nice if he had made some slight attempt at being vaguely welcoming.
As we entered the musty-smelling house, we all became aware that we had
picked up something on our shoes as we had walked across the yard.
"What's that?" asked Ali. "Oh God, it's cow shit!"
"Ah," - here, as someone who had spent several youthful summers
working on farms, I came into my own - "ah no, that's certainly not
cow shit, it hasn't got the right consistency. No, it's definitely chicken
shit, and, do you know ..." (sniff) "... I could swear there's
a hint of pigshit in there as well."
Damned impressive, I thought, but the others were too busy scraping their
shoes and retching (remember the morning sickness) to appreciate the skill
involved in my diagnosis.
In the morning, the composition of the unlikely cocktail was confirmed.
In the yard roamed both pigs and chickens, all crapping away to their
hearts' content.
"Why didn't you tell us it was a bloody pig farm?" demanded
Paul.
"I didn't know!" I replied, truthfully.
"Here, let's have a look at that brochure. If it doesn't say anything
about it being a pig farm, I'm going to ask for a refund."
Oh dear. A reappraisal of the photocopy did, indeed, reveal, in tiny print,
the legend "Entreprise porcine". Not that I would necessarily
have recognised this slightly estate agents' blurb rose-tinted bespectacled
mode of description, but clearly, all the other potential clients had,
which was no doubt the reason why it was the only gîte left without
a felt-tip cross. We had literally been crapped on.
"Things will look better in the morning" is a really silly expression
which is hardly ever accurate. In my experience, things invariably look
considerably worse in the morning. As they did on the starship "Entreprise
porcine". As shit goes, it's the piggy version which receives the
worse press, but the chicken variety is actually far more pungent. It
attracted eager flies and other creepy-crawlies which didn't at all mind
entering our house. There being no lawn, the children couldn't be let
out, for fear of either being covered in crap or eaten alive either by
mosquitoes or rabid Alsatians. Oh, happy hols.
Inside, the house was as filthy as the interior of an unswept chimney.
Sam crawled around for a few moments and was instantly transformed into
a Black and White Minstrel (without the White bit). Of course, he tried
to put his hands in his mouth and didn't comprehend why he wasn't allowed
to (his "Wuuuuaaaaaaaarrrghs!" being in this case quite understandable).
His clothes couldn't be washed as the hot water had broken down. The children
had to be washed in the sink because there was no bath.
But we were British, mainly, and upper lips were stiffened. We would just
have to make the best of it, wouldn't we? So off we set (it rained every
day, by the way, but that goes without saying) to visit a selection of
extremely boring small towns, seedy, run-down zoos and rip-off amusement
parks. Both couples went out to dinner twice (leaving the others to babysit),
but the local restaurant had a very limited menu consisting of various
types of tough, fatty meat and bony fish so obscure that their names weren't
even listed in the dictionary. You can't go wrong with French food. Yeah,
that's what we had thought as well.
Paul and I half-heartedly drove into Châteleaudren for a beer in
its sole café, but the local "lads" looked at us so threateningly
when we put a coin on the edge of the pool table to indicate that we'd
like a game, that we abandoned both the coin and our beer, escaping while
the going was good.
There was another doubtful sporting activity to be enjoyed at the farm.
The farmer's wife, occasionally to be seen in a smock, hanging out washing,
never actually made contact with us, but her daughter did. Cross-eyed
and capable only of grunting (a bit like what they keep in the attic in
Hammer films), she appeared at the door of our gîte every morning,
cradling a "boule" in each hand, leered at us and indicated
that we should follow her to the weedy gravel patch which masqueraded
as a boules terrain. We didn't know the rules and she was incapable of
explaining them, so the only way we could know how the game had gone was
to watch her reactions. If she giggled inanely, she had won, but if she
burst into tears and ran back to the farmhouse shouting curses, she had
lost. In the latter case, both mum and dad would glower psychotically
at us from behind the curtains.
As if in sympathy for our predicament, my one remaining wisdom tooth decided
to make its hitherto unnoticed presence felt. But this time, it did so
with a genuine sense of vengeance for some unspecified but evil crime
I must have perpetrated against it (possibly neglecting it for a lifetime,
for a start). This was no normal toothache, such as that encountered in
Luxembourg. Oh, no, this was cancer of the jaw. Yes, it was. Only that
could explain the horrendous agony with which I was overwhelmed.
For two days, I lay in a darkened room. The bed was rock hard, the rain
hammered on the shutters, the smell from the yard was appalling, but I
cared only for my jaw. I consumed massive overdoses of paracetemol, listened
to Birgit assuring me that cancer of the jaw didn't exist and that, even
if it did, I didn't have it, and begged her to plunge a knife into my
heart and put me out of this misery. Surely, death would be infinitely
preferable to this torture.
Eventually, Birgit found a chemist, who gave her some suppositories. For
me, not for her. Having a wife who is willing to shove things up your
arse can sometimes be an advantage, but she trained as a nurse and so
is experienced in doing unspeakable things to people. It wasn't as awful
as I feared it would be, but it did no good. When we managed to translate
what it said in the small print on the box, we realised that it contained
merely a minor dose of aspirin. I begged to be taken to a dentist, but
I was the only one who spoke French, and therefore eventually had to arrange
it myself.
There was no phone in the gîte (laughable notion), so enquiries
had to be made from a rural phone box without the help of any Yellow Pages,
not an easy thing to do when you can open your mouth no more than a millimetre
wide. No doubt our hosts would have helped, but the farmer was permanently
out and his wife pretended to be.
I won't go into detail about what the village dentist did. Oh, all right
then, I will. Diagnosing that there was a reservoir of puss underneath
the tooth causing all the trouble, he declared that it would have to be
released in order to relieve the pressure. To this end, he added an extra
long "bit" to his drill and simply bored down through the tooth,
the root and the nerve and out the bottom (that's the bottom of the tooth,
not my bottom, although it felt like it). Thus, the gunge beneath the
tooth was granted its freedom.
I'm not upsetting anyone in any way, am I? It bloody upset me, I can tell
you.
Back at the cottage, there was one feature which we hadn't yet tried out.
The fireplace in the main room (you could have called it a sitting room,
were it not for the fact that that the only thing to sit on was a straight-backed
wooden chair) was tempting. True, it did have a bird's nest in it, but
it looked combustible. Besides, there being nothing else to do, we spent
the evenings playing board games in the kitchen. There was a TV, but it
was a black and white one with no signal. What more attractive thought
than to play our board games in front of a crackling log fire?
I gathered a few twigs from the hedge, added them to the bird's nest and
struck a match. Within seconds, the entire house was filled with acrid
fumes and all its inhabitants were forced to flee, squelching into the
yard while the - shall we say furious? - farmer poured buckets of water
onto the conflagration. Well, how was I to know that the chimney had been
boarded up years before?
"That's it," said Paul, "we're leaving." And, surprisingly,
no one tried to talk him out of his decision.
At the height of the summer, it's not normally easy to change ferry crossings,
but Paul pulled rank at P & O and arranged for us to take the next
day's boat from Le Havre. But by the time we had squeezed everything back
into the car, time was tight. Paul had the bit between his teeth and entered
suicidal driving mode, determined on no account to miss the ferry. The
rest of us just covered our eyes and prayed, while Sam expressed himself
by bellowing
"Wuuuuaaaaaaaarrrgh!"
into my ear with even more urgency and frequency than before.
None of it helped. We drove onto the harbour front to witness the Pride
of Le Havre (or whatever it was called) steaming purposefully out of the
harbour, and not even the Queen Mother could have had it turned round.We
had to book ourselves into a seedy seafront hotel for the night.
And while we're on about it, what does Le Havre have to be proud about?
It's a horrible place with few redeeming features. But I may be prejudiced
on account of what happened that evening when we tried to go out for a
meal in what looked like quite a nice restaurant. The infant Annabel had
a little plastic horse which she trotted round the table. Yes, it made
a bit of noise, but the people at the only other table which was occupied
showed no sign of even noticing, far less complaining. Nevertheless, the
owner decided that he was going to ask us to leave, because we were "disturbing
other customers". I've never been so angry. Opposite, there was a
building site. I picked up a brick and had to be restrained from hurling
it through the restaurant's window. I'd have done it, I honestly would.
"Let's look on the bright side," I said in the morning (another
unhelpful saying, aren't they all?) "Now we've got time to do some
duty-free shopping."
"Very good, Oliver. Where exactly are we going to put it?"
"Er ... on my lap?"
And so it was that I ended up with several large boxes of wine and beer
on my knees in the back seat, obscuring Paul's view as he reversed out
of Auchan's car park and straight into a concrete bollard which inflicted
severe damage on his father-in-law's precious car.
But still we remained friends. Indeed, I'm sure that, if it hadn't been
for growing children and changing relationships, we'd have shared lots
more holidays. As it was, it was many years before we teamed up once more,
again following one of my bright ideas.
***
In my youth, I'd avidly read the novels of Arthur Ransome. Although the
most famous of them were set in the Lake District, two of my favourites,
"Coot Club" and "The Big Six" had been about nineteen-twenties
youngsters living out idyllic sailing holidays on the Norfolk Broads.
The names resonated with me so vividly: Wroxham, Horning, Potter Heigham.
What about hiring a boat on the Broads and having a few adventures ourselves?
After all, both Paul and I now had two teenage children and Paul's new
wife Adèle got on well with Birgit. What could go wrong?
Well, the M25, for a start. It was Friday night, and, as usual, the traffic
was at a standstill in the torrential rain, but we comforted ourselves
with the reassuring thought that we were heading for an area of tranquil
beauty where we would be able to relax and forget the hurly-burly of daily
life.
Yes, well ... Arthur Ransome was writing a long time ago. It turned out
that the M25 and the Broads had more in common than one could possibly
have imagined. As we took over our cruiser and pulled out onto the river,
we noticed a strange similarity between what we were doing now and what
we had been doing a couple of hours previously, namely making slow progress
through a traffic jam. The only difference was that we were now in a boat.
So there we have it: the M25 and the Norfolk Broads: Both are long, straight,
featureless and permanently jammed.
Surely not? Why do so many people go on the Broads for their holidays?
Ah, there's a paradox. If it wasn't for the tourists, it would be quite
quiet, wouldn't it? And so would the beach at Torremilonos. Although,
to be perfectly accurate, a better Broads analogy would be Tesco's car
park on a Friday evening: a procession of vehicles searching fruitlessly
for a parking space. This we realised when the time came for us to think
about tying up for the night. Easy, we thought, remembering our canal
successes. We simply tie up outside a rustic pub and dive into it for
dinner.
Ah, but on the Broads, it doesn't work like that. As dusk encroached,
we began to panic. Where could we tie up? Okay, theoretically, we could
drop anchor in the middle of a broad, but then we wouldn't be able to
go to the pub.
That was the problem, the pubs. They really have it sewn up, you know.
Provided their particular piece of river bank isn't already chock-a-block
(which it probably is), they are delighted for you to moor up outside
them but only if you a) pay a fiver for the privilege or b) eat an over-priced
meal in them. On the first night, we opted for the latter course, which
provided us with quite an adventure.
We stumbled through the monsoon (yes, of course there was a bloody monsoon)
to a large pub with a big family room. The place was packed with holidaymakers,
all tucking into something or other with chips. We all commented on the
fact that the chips were real (i.e. made out of actual potatoes, not frozen).
How refreshing! How unusual and innovative for pub food to be genuinely
home made! But not for one family in the corner, who complained to the
barmaid about the quality of their chips. Far from being pleased, they
would actually have preferred their chips to be of the frozen variety.
The chef was at the end of his tether after allegedly serving 300 meals
that weekend. The first that we or any of the other guests knew of this
was when he came charging out of the kitchen, pouring sweat and snorting
and grunting like a newly-released bull. In his hand he held aloft a large
raw potato, which he slammed onto the table of the complaining family
with such force that he nearly broke it in two, like in one of those karate
demonstrations. A hush descended on the bar as all eyes and ears turned
to him.
"You wanna see a fucking potato?" he demanded. "That's
a fucking potato! I don't expect you've ever seen one. In this pub you
get real food. If you want frozen food, you can fuck off back to your
council house where you belong!"
Obviously, political correctness is an alien concept to the good folk
of Norfolk - at least to this particular representative. The balance of
support seemed to be in favour of the chef, and there was even a hint
of a ripple of applause, but unfortunately, he had chosen the wrong family
(or the wrong family had chosen him). The father was large, tattooed and
musclebound, while his wife would have given a fishwife a bad name. As
the man got to his feet and drew himself up to his full and not inconsiderable
height, far from restraining him and saying, "No, Gary, don't get
involved", she was actually pushing him forward and encouraging him
to "make something of it". It was obvious that a major brawl
was about to break out, and the first thing that seemed likely to happen
would be that the chef, who was overweight and not young, would collapse
from a heart attack. He was as white as a sheet and hyperventilating alarmingly.
But he wasn't to be insulted in this way. As his customer squared up to
him, he suddenly had an idea for a choice of weapon, charged back into
the kitchen and re-emerged with a large catering container full of chips,
which he proceeded to pour over the customer's head.
As the customer wiped the grease from his eyes, this was the point at
which, along with the rest of the cowering clientele, we slunk out into
the car park, adults shivering and children wide-eyed. Wow, that had been
some supper. It had come complete with cabaret and we hadn't even had
a chance to pay, although I did go back and settle up the next morning.
The bar was surprisingly un-trashed, but of the chef there was no sign.
Back on the boat, we naturally discussed the events, and it turned out
that it was a good thing the chef hadn't done a Basil Fawlty and demanded
to know whether the other customers were satisfied. Comparing notes about
our various meals, we discovered that the salmon and prawn pie had contained
neither salmon nor prawns, while the chicken curry had thrown up remarkably
little chicken.
"Well go on then, who else is dissatisfied with their meal, eh?"
You could imagine hands being timidly raised:
"Er, well, actually ...."
The pubs got better, but not much. On the second night, we were enticed
to moor outside a hostelry in Horning. Here there was a man on duty especially
to reel you in, like a fish. By this time, it was so wet that you could
hardly tell where the river ended and the garden began, and he was appropriately
attired from head to foot in bright yellow waterproofs and waders. We
didn't mind that, but he then woke us up at 6 am by noisily re-arranging
us in order to squeeze in yet more captive customers.
The next night we were at a pub at Reedham Ferry. By this time, we had
got things better sussed and had tied up some distance away and walked
into the village, at least giving us a choice of where to eat (which was
a system which only worked if you could actually find a free mooring space
anywhere, which was seldom). In this pub, things looked more promising
until the local folk musician came on and played every cliche finger-in-the-ear
folk song known to man. That bastard "Wild Rover" and "Seven
Bloody Drunken Nights", you know the stuff. His set was enlivened
by a girl in the audience who looked like an ex-punk rocker along the
lines of Hazel O'Connor and begged to be allowed to do a song. She had
a sweet voice and did a pin-dropping rendition of Ewan McColl's "The
First Time Ever I Saw Her Face". Of course, she was a million times
better that Mr Arran Sweater (the Singing Postman would have been preferable)
and we all bellowed for more. He was having none of it. Unwilling to have
his show stolen, he tried to win us back by involving us in a lusty singalong
entitled "Norfolk and Good" (try singing it out loud). The children
were even wider-eyed than before, and the adults just raised their eyes
to heaven.
Before finally giving in and opting for the "anchor in the middle
of a broad and play board games" option, we did have one last despairing
attempt at a pub supper. In Stalham, there seemed to be only one pub with
food, so in we went. The ensuing scenario will be one which readers will
recognise. In case any readers are foreign, you may need an introduction
to the culture of pub food in the UK
Each table has a little brass plate on it with a number. Near the bar
will be a poster with easy-to-follow instructions for how to get something
in your stomach. On no account sit down at a table and expect to be served,
because you'll be there until closing time, at which point they'll chuck
you out. The instructions will say:
1. Select a table from those available and note its number.
2. Choose a dish from our delicious and wide-ranging menu and order it
at the bar.
3. Order your drinks at the same time.
4. The meal will them be brought to your table (Ed: Big deal, huh?).
In other words, you do all the work. Plus, by the time your food arrives,
you have finished your drink. You can try asking the waitress for another
one, but she will look at you as if you are from the Planet Zog and say
she isn't allowed to do that. So you re-join the queue for the bar and,
by the time you have obtained your drink, your food is cold.
There are, of course, some variations to this pattern, and it was one
of these that we experienced in Stalham. You scan the menu and find some
things which sound really nice. You order them and sit down, only to be
informed some time later that they are, in fact, "off". So you
have to have a re-think and return to the bar and order something you
don't actually particularly want. In the meantime, those who ordered things
that were "on" receive and consume theirs, leaving you all on
your own with yours. Except that, in Stalham, fifty percent of the menu
was "off", so at least we got to eat in two shifts.
I went for a fantastic starter. "Succulent, fresh whole-tail North
Atlantic King Prawns, lightly coated in crisp golden breadcrumbs and grilled
to perfection, served with a deliciously light Marie-Rose sauce and a
salad garnish."
Wow! It sounded magnificent! Why do people bother going to France when
they can get catering like this on their own doorstep? The reality was
two reconstituted lumps of frozen fishy stuff with prawn tails attached,
done up in batter and deep fried in lard until nearly black, served with
a leaf of lettuce and some pink gunge from Happy Shopper.
Still, the surroundings were interesting. The very loud jukebox specialised
in speed metal. We ate our second and third choices surrounded by the
black leather-clad and heavily-pierced locals (whose engine oil aroma
was actually preferable to that emitting from the kitchen), to the strains
of Metallica, Megadeth and Slipknot. Yum!
From then on, we settled for take-away ready meals from Somerfields in
Beccles.
Probably, a Broads holiday is wonderful if the sun shines, but as it was,
we just had to keep on the move, which was especially problematic because
the hire boat didn't have any windscreen wipers and for much of the time
we couldn't see where we were going. Apart from reducing the scenic merit
of the holiday, it meant we were in a permanent state of terror of crashing
into the bank, a bridge or another boat.
A further problem was caused by the fact that you had to lower the entire
roof before going under bridges. In the ongoing tropical storm, this was
inadvisable, so various routes were inaccessible to us. At Potter Heigham,
for instance, even the little dinghies favoured by Coot Club members had
trouble negotiating the famously low bridge, so we had no chance at all
After all the rain, there was only about a foot of clearance, so even
a model boat such as you might use in your bath would have found it difficult
to get through. All we could do was shrug our shoulders and turn round.
On one occasion, we rounded a corner to see a railway bridge in front
of us. I don't know why no one thought to make any preparations. We just
kind of assumed that it would lift itself or swing open or something.
It even looked high enough for us to swish gently underneath it. As it
happened, a nice little train was just passing over it, so maybe we were
distracted by that. Possibly we were just pissed.
At any event, Paul suddenly yelled, "Shit, I've got to lower the
roof". As I threw the engine into reverse, Paul rushed below decks
to adjust the roof, but never got there. In his haste, he smashed his
head against the wooden canopy, making a gaping hole in it (that's his
head, not the canopy, which remained intact). The passengers in the passing
train had front row seats for a splatter movie, as we drifted around in
the middle of the river, lavishing the entire first aid kit upon Paul's
shattered bonce.
Within two days, we had explored every available inch of the Northern
Broads and were forced to take the plunge of negotiating Great Yarmouth,
about which the guide book was completely doom-laden, and rightly so.
It was terrifying. What we had to do was consult the handbook, calculate
when low tide would be at Yarmouth and set out from a place called Stracey
Arms two hours beforehand, in the knowledge that the river we were travelling
along was now tidal and that we would absolutely not be able to stop or
moor up anywhere between there and the coast. Instructions for dealing
with the various bridges, narrow channels, vicious currents, traffic lights
and other hazards of Great Yarmouth were detailed and complicated. You
couldn't have done it without someone reading them out loud to the steerer.
Except that some people obviously did. Here another hazard came into the
equation. Not only were we incompetent landlubbers, but so was practically
everyone else on the Broads. In the Arthur Ransome books, there were just
one or two "Hullabaloos", or townies playing loud music, travelling
too fast and generally being useless and dangerous. But here, everybody
(including us) was a Hullabaloo. We had all had a laughable minimum of
instruction. We, however, were at least trying to follow the rules about
speed, position, etiquette, etc, while many of the others cheerfully ignored
everything except their own progress, instead acting as if they were in
bumper boats in a theme park. Yup, it was the old M25 syndrome again.
On the way to Great Yarmouth, therefore, we saw one terrified family stranded
at 45 degrees on a mudflat, having strayed too far from the centre of
the channel. It was the Broads equivalent of the hard shoulder, except
with no access to any emergency telephones and a longer than usual wait
for the AA.
Negotiating one of the bridges, we narrowly avoided a head-on collision
with one boat while nearly being rammed from behind by another. Once,
on Breydon Broad, a speedboat full of "Hullabaloos" streaked
past, leaving the flotilla of pleasure boats bobbing and plunging and
in genuine danger of sinking.
In the evenings, pubs having proved a bit of a culinary cul de sac, we
took to playing games. This is the best way for families to bond, unless,
of course, any of the members are particularly competitive. Luckily, no
one in either family cared less whether we won or lost, so normally the
evenings degenerated into stomach-ache inducing hysterics on the subject
of each other's bodily functions, all of which were clearly audible through
the paper-thin cabin walls. Don't go on holiday with friends if you have
any intimate personal secrets you'd rather they didn't know about. And
do not entertain any hopes of sex. Luckily, we all knew about each other's
farting, snoring and pre-menstrual outrageousness before we set off, and
we knew a hell of a lot more about them by the time we got back.
But still we remained friends. In fact, we all became even better friends,
bolstered by the reassurance that each family suffered in equal measure
from the wrath of female hormones and that there are certain things in
life that are best let out into the open.
Paul and his family recently emigrated to America, probably in order to
avoid the possibility that we might invite them on a fortnight's mountain
bike tour of Milton Keynes.
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