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Hurr
If I was a teenager today, I would try for a Liam Gallagher / Ian Brown
hairstyle. My hair is a statement and always will be, even when I no longer
have any. I'll probably have my head tattooed.
Upon my mother's mantelpiece there is a photo of me with a haircut which
was imposed upon me by my parents. Their idea of the only acceptable haircut
for a male was very short at the back, very short at the sides and parted
on the left, with the front swept to the side, rather in the manner of
people attempting to conceal a bald patch. To this day, my mother will
point to the fading evidence and pronounce, "That's how I really
liked you", and it genuinely is true to say that she has never really
liked me since it went away.
In schools, even today, hair is of tremendous significance to those in
power. Although there is no reason to believe that it is true, leaders
in schools think that an unconventional hairstyle is a sign of evil. That
this is false is plain to see. For example, I myself am a fine upstanding
citizen with no criminal or anti-social tendencies, but I have tended
towards confrontational hairstyles ever since I have had a choice. Currently,
it's the only thing possible, a pony tail. This does mean often being
derided for trying to be an ageing trendy, but it still demonstrates the
required attitude of rebelling against convention. Daft really, in view
of how deeply conventional I am.
Of youngsters I have known, those with the Mohicans and the green gel
have turned into the most gentle and responsible family men while many
of those with the most "appropriate" haircuts have turned into
hardened criminals and wife-beaters. My own children are divided: Annabel
would dearly love me to be look "like everyone else's dad" and
if I felt that I was causing her genuine embarrassment, I would cut it
off. However, it seems that enough of her friends think I'm "cool"
for her to be prepared to tolerate it. Lucy, on the other hand, specifically
does NOT want me to look "like everyone else's dad". She looks
tearful every time I suggest any kind of change. As for my wife Birgit,
she doesn't show any sign of not wanting to be seen with me. We all enjoy
knocking people's preconceptions and I know that many people have uttered
the words, "He's actually quite nice really, despite the mess he
looks". Mess! It's not easy to maintain an image, I can tell you.
I can trace the beginning of my personal hairstyle revolution to a front
page story in the Gloucester "Citizen". Terry Dene, a Fifties
rocker so obscure he doesn't even appear in the index of "Beat Merchants",
became involved in a fracas in a Westgate Street coffee bar prior to his
show at the Regal. The locals were so outraged that I started to be interested
in the image of Dene and contemporaries such as Billy Fury and Marty Wilde.
I began to gather the existence of strange and wonderful things known
as Square Cuts and Bostons, both of which were ways of arranging the back
of your head (which you never actually saw outside of a very uncomfortable
procedure involving holding up one mirror behind you whilst squinting
into another held up in front of you).
My mother had heard of these dangerous options, so it was impossible to
ask for them in her presence. Every few weeks, she would take me into
Stroud to the barber's shop. I worked out a method which entailed going
ahead to the barbers on my own while Mother chatted to a lady in the wool
shop. In this way, I could be ensconced in the seat and have already requested
the crucial variation "Boston please, Bob") before she arrived.
Obsessed as they were with the parting and its position, my parents would
never be aware of my Boston. Invisible to them, to me it was everything.
To Jack Farley it was everything too, but in quite a different way. Jack
Farley was my mathematics teacher. He was a small person who had come
originally from Cornwall and thus had a strong accent which was ideal
for imitating and grossly exaggerating by his pupils. Jack was obsessed
with preventing anyone else from having hair with any kind of style, and
would relentlessly pursue anyone whose neck or ears were sullied by anything
more than millimetre-length bristles. His catch-phrase was: " Yoo,
boooy! Git yore hurrrr kott!", which would ring out along the echoey,
disinfectant-smelling corridors all break and every lunchtime.
The morning after my first successful duping of my innocent mother into
not noticing that my haircut had deviated from the norm, I entered school
with the completely justified fear that Jack Farley would not be similarly
deceived. I was right: Jack Farley's life was dedicated to spotting such
perversions.
"Grayyyy, booooy," I heard from a number of yards behind me
. "Uzz thutt a Squayur Kott?!"
"What do you mean, Sir?", I offered, in an attempt to appear
innocent.
"Down't playy gaymezz with mee, booooy. That izz oyther a Squayer
Kott or a Bozzton."
It needs to be said at this point that Jack Farley very probably didn't
really speak like a cross between Hermann Goering and a member of the
Wurzels, but that's how he sounded when we imitated him, and that's how
he will live forever. And so....
"And what'z moore: You appearrrre to be growin' yore soide whusskerz."
Beneath the terror, I felt a faint stirring of pride. In my just post-pubescent
state, there was no conceivable chance of growing genuine Soide Whusskerz;
however, many hours of combing small strands of hair (which actually wanted
to grow behind my ears) in front of them had obviously had the desired
effect, at least upon Jack Farley. He actually thought I was growing my
Soide Whusskerz! My defeat (for him) was a triumph (for me)!
That night, the back-of-head mirror sprung into action and Plan B was
adopted. It was important that Jack Farley should think I had been back
to the hairdressers as he had ordered me to do, so the Squayer Kott had
somehow to remain in a form which was acceptable to my peers as being
one, but would appear to Jack to have been removed. It was hard, but it
was possible. Similarly, the Soide Whusskerz had to be slicked back in
such a way that Jack would think they had been shaved off, but so that
they would in fact still be available to be retrieved and reinstated on
the way to the bus station and in time to impress the girls of St. Peters
on the bus. And I managed it!
Over the coming months (the Beatles had arrived) something akin to civil
disobedience occurred at school. It became impossible for Jack Farley
to size up everyone's Hurr. His head would have had to spin permanently
through 360 degrees. He was forced to move on to ensuring that the Hurr
didn't actually CUVVURR the EARZZ. Which was, of course, the frontier
that we would aim at pushing back next.
The next stage in my permanently ongoing hair fixation was determined
by fan-worship of Tony Hicks. Tony Hicks is the lead guitarist of the
Hollies. He always did have the world's best hairstyle and he still does.
This is a very rare and precious gift.
When I first became interested in the Hollies, Tony had a hairstyle which,
for the time, was perfect in its appropriateness for what he was doing
(playing inspiredly casual lead guitar and singing harmony backup vocals
in a combo which at the time (prior to monstrosities such as "Jennifer
Eccles") had considerable credibility. His hair (as displayed on
the cover of "Stay With The Hollies", their first album) was
coiffed into an exquisitely Brylcreem-sculpted Eddie Cochran quiff which
somehow didn't look like a teddy-boy. This contrasted with his colleague
Graham Nash, who had a virtually identical style and an even more goofy
grin, but merely looked a twat. For me it was crucial to be a Tony Hicks
and not a Graham Nash. Whatever the elusive magic was, I had to have it.
Actually acquiring a "Tony Hicks" was quite out of the question,
since, unlike a Square Cut or a Boston, it would have been impossible
to disguise. But luckily, fate took a hand in the form of Beatlemania
and the invention of the Beatle cut.
You can trace on Beatles photos the arrival of the Mop Top style (in early
photos they all sport teddy-boy quiffs), and all contemporary bands not
destined for obscurity followed with alacrity. My style guru Tony Hicks
adopted what to this day I consider to be the quintessential hairstyle
by changing to a mop top which genuinely looked like a mop, i.e. it tumbled
floppily (Flop Top?) from the apex of his crown to lie in a symmetrical
sugar bowl style which needed no cosmetics or attention to keep it in
perfect shape. I could almost surmise that he didn't even comb it, such
was its casually impeccable state at the end of lengthy energetic live
performances; on the other hand, I don't believe that Tony Hicks has sweat
glands, actually.
But why am I using the past tense? Tony Hicks is still performing and
he still has the same sublime head of hair (plus, no doubt, an ageing
portrait in the attic). This desirable crowning glory can be viewed to
best effect on the sleeve of the Hollies' 1966 album "For Certain
Because", but when the Hollies are next billed to play in your town,
have a closer look at the fly posters. There, under the spotlight, stage
right, clutching the cherry-red guitar, you'll see the mildly-flattened
hamster that is the quintessential "Tony Hicks". And Graham
Nash? Wouldn't you know it? He KEPT HIS QUIFF! That is, until he joined
Crosby, Stills and Nash, but that's another story.
I worked hard on my Tony Hicks and naively believed that I approximately
attained it; photos from this Sixth Form era reveal, however, that I was
far, far away. The problem was the lack of texture and substance and a
horrifying propensity for irritating little wispy, curly bits spoiling
the overall picture. It wasn't until John Yorke came into my life that
I learned a bit about how to tackle "butterflies".
Beginning university was quite a culture shock. For a start, I met John
Vincent Yorke.
I'm not sure about the concept of retrospective respect, but John is due
for some on account of something I didn't find out until recently. I knew
that he had attended Eltham Green School and been expelled from it. I
now know that these are two things he had in common with Boy George. John,
anyway, was a wide boy who had sussed that he could get a year's free
dossing at university before being asked to leave, and it seemed a pretty
good option to him. So, nominally studying Sociology, he never actually
attended any lectures or seminars or wrote any essays. John was free to
party all night and spend all day sleeping and "smoothing".
Smoothing was a word invented by John and it meant a complicated but vital
procedure necessary for attaining the perfect hairstyle. Its purpose was
to eliminate "butterflies", which are those hated little wispy
bits referred to earlier. The (correct) premise was that all butterflies
must be killed at all costs and that if it took time, it took time. The
derivation of the word was connected with the intended smoothness of the
hair and the smoothness (= hipness) of its possessor.
So here's how to get rid of butterflies. First wash your hair carefully,
rinsing several times. Dry very lightly, using a towel. During this process,
take strands of hair between folds of the towel and pull down slowly but
firmly from the top of the head to the end of the hair. Then switch on
the hair dryer. Using a specially purchased round hairbrush, insert it
kind of underneath the hair above the ears and very slowly draw the hair
down to the ends with the brush, applying the dryer (set on medium heat)
all the while. Just as you reach the bottom, gently twist the brush one
more time towards the head, thus ensuring that the ends curl inwards,
if at all. On no account may they curl outwards; the optimal result, of
course, is complete straightness. Repeat the entire procedure all round
for at least forty-five minutes or until hair is completely dry. Do not
on any account go out in the rain or the wind, or all your work will be
wasted.
Tony Hicks, of course, steps straight out of the shower and achieves all
this without any effort. Bastard.
John Yorke taught me how to do this and in our rooms we would spend Saturday
afternoons preparing for the evening ahead. Favourites to emulate at the
time were various Small Faces, the Action and, distressingly, in retrospect,
Tich (out of Dave Dee, Dozy...), because they not only had no butterflies
but also sported a little backcombed bit at the crown of the head, like
a kind of fluffy skullcap. John was adept at creating one of these, but
the shape of my head meant that it just refused to work on me. John was
a Mod and I would initially have been interested in going in that direction,
I suppose, but I was relieved that we were on the cusp of the transfer
into general long-hairedness as a fashion. This meant that butterfly eradication
was sufficient and that I didn't need to get into armache-inducing backcombing
sessions.
So off we would go to the Saturday night gigs and do the little Mod dance
which involved shuffling of feet, clicking of fingers but very little
shaking of heads. The music came from the Mike Cotton Sound, Herbie Goins
and the Nighttimers or Geno Washington, and we thought the girls would
be irresistibly attracted by our butterfly-free zones. Sometimes they
were, but I didn't go as far as John, who refused to let girls run their
hands through his hair for fear of disturbing it.
John had found his perfect hairstyle and stuck with it, but I was consumed
with the desire for flowing locks and therefore continued to apply the
anti-butterfly technology whilst growing the hair as fast as I could.
I think I felt that the downward-stroking motions would make it grow faster,
almost as if you could pull it out from an endless internal source (you
can do this with a strimmer, did you know?). I now had new heroes to follow,
in the form of Glenn, Trevor and Miles, two incredibly cool sociology
students onto whom I latched. Both had perfectly straight, perfectly-smoothed
shoulder-length hair and Miles had no surname. This later made me wonder
whether he could have turned into Miles, the surnameless rock journalist,
but I suppose we shall never know. One of my proudest possessions is a
photo of me, Glenn, Trevor and Miles setting off to a Fairport Convention
gig in Colchester. There is no wind and no rain and we all look spectacular.
Just for that photo, it was worth all the effort. Unfortunately, the album
also contains countless crap photos of interest only to lepidopterists.
So what became of John Yorke? He got a job packing records at Virgin Mail
Order and was subsumed into the record industry, an ideal place for a
lazy, vain, charming wastrel with flair. I only saw him a couple more
times, but his anti-butterfly technique has been with me ever since.
No one will be surprised to hear that this interest made any meaningful
further relationship with my parents a total impossibility. The shame
of being associated with me was to much for them to bear, so they requested
that I should come home as little as possible. It was fortunate that I
was due for my year "abroad", a device which to the university
authorities meant improving my standard of German but to me meant a glorious
nine months of total turpitude.
I met Jochen Schmidt in the queue at the University of Kiel accommodation
office, which meant that we ended up sharing a flat. Jochen, like all
young Germans, had just completed his national service and thus was short-haired.
Being similarly obsessed with musicians and their appearance, he aimed
to change this as soon as possible, and thus was very keen to take lessons
from me on the subject of smoothing. Outrageous as it may seem, in view
of the fact that we were so poor that we could pay for no heating, transport
and hardly any food, we spent our virtually non-existent cash on a HAIR-DRYER!
And we never for a moment questioned the wisdom of such an action.
If I thought I was vain, Jochen Schmidt had me beaten hands down. In his
ability to spend entire days in front of a mirror with hair dryer in one
hand and brush in the other, he made John Yorke look like an amateur.
He did, however, go to extremes. For instance, he refused point blank
to set foot outside the flat if it was raining or snowing. This, in the
bleak northern European climate of Schleswig-Holstein, was a real problem.
There was also the little matter that the flat had no source of hot water,
so every smoothing session had to be irrigated by an endless sequence
of saucepans of boiling water (since the Germans have an aversion to kettles).
Theupshot of this was that the flat was permanently filled with condensation,
resulting in freezing, damp beds and windows which were impossible to
look out of.
The place to be and the place to be seen in Kiel was the Spektrum Club,
now sadly a carpet shop. The DJ there was Paul Raven, later better known
as Gary Glitter, although he can't have made much impression on me. All
I can remember about Spektrum was many hours spent on the dance floor
doing nothing but shake my hair. In contrast to the UEA hops, it was here
important to be rooted to one spot on the floor and move nothing but the
head, the feel of the flapping of the hair being a reassurance that it
was indeed there and that one was indeed as hip as one thought one was.
Jochen Schmidt and I would stand there and sway from midnight until three
o'clock in the morning.The soundtrack was the then currently fashionable
sort of track which lasted the whole side of an album, such as Iron Butterfly's
In A Gadda Da Vida, various extended James Brown workouts and, curiously
for a band noted for its brevity, an endless version of Suzie Q (Parts
1 & 2), by Creedence Clearwater Revival. Later, we would repair to
Club 68, where we would sit cross-legged in corners and hope that girls
would think we looked mysterious and intellectual. Jochen must have looked
more mysterious and intellectual than me, because he would take far more
girls back to the soggy sheets than I managed to. Maybe it was partly
because I had an embarrassing tendency to fall asleep in the Club 68 and
get thrown out.
The band that we worshipped was Free. Tonsorially speaking, it was hard
to justify this, because the band was a hairstyle disaster area, with
only one member out of four being really well-smoothed. Andy Fraser, the
bassist, had an awful poodle-cut, singer Paul Rodgers' locks, though long
and flowing, were coarse and unacceptably wavy, while Paul Kossoff....well,
no wonder he got himself a drug habit. Drummer Simon Kirke, however, was
the man. His hair was blonde, straight as a dye and fell forward to completely
obscure his facial features as he walloped his drums in a wonderful minimalist
fashion which has never really been given the acknowledgement it is due.
That was what we were trying to look like as we swayed on the dance floor,
and do you know, we probably didn't do badly.
One fantastic Tuesday evening, Free played live at the Spektrum club.
It was the first time I heard "All Right Now". The entire band
looked hopelessly out of it and played like angels. On the way home, I
became involved in a bizarre episode which involved getting arrested for
fly-posting. It was a genuine mistake, since what I was actually doing
was the opposite, i.e. REMOVING a poster of Free from a wall in order
to put it up in my bedroom. When all this was explained, I was released
amidst much hilarity.
The next weekend, we hitched to Copenhagen and ended up in the Tivoli
pleasure gardens. Eager for further pleasure, we tried to impress some
young girls by taking them repeatedly on the Big Dipper, but eventually
impressed them much more by pretending to be members of Free on a night
off from their European tour. Dark-haired Jochen Schmidt, slightly dishevelled
from repeated goes on the "Ruschebeen", was Paul Rodgers and
I, of course, was Simon Kirke. Just for one night, we got a mild feel
for what it must have been like to be in a pop group, because yes, the
girls believed it and yes, they were impressed. Once again, smoothing
had proved its worth.
Twenty-five years on, Jochen Schmidt still lives in Kiel, still smoothing
by day and grooving by night. He also still listens to the same records,
which include "Those About To Die" by Colosseum, "A Doughnut
In Granny's Greenhouse" by the Bonzo Dog Band, and Bakerloo, by (wait
for it) Bakerloo. This little-known epic featured Clem Clempson, an excellently-smoothed
guitarist, later to appear in Humble Pie and Colosseum. An original copy
of this album is priceless; luckily, Jochen Schmidt won the National Lottery
in 1990 and was able to obtain a mint version to replace the scratched
one which I left behind in Kiel.
So, one way and another, nothing much has changed for Jochen Schmidt.
The only difference is that his hugely impressive mane is totally white.
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